2019 HATalk Competition Entry

Hazel Ghisla

Hazel Ghisla – Australia

Serendipitous Fusion

Description

For my hat I used a beautiful floral pink, lilac and coral printed silk which a dear friend, Karla, gave to me when she downsized to move from Sydney to Canberra, Australia, 12 months ago. This silk is more than 40 years old and reminded me of Karla as I planned, sewed and surveyed the completed hat.

I combined this silk with a silk dupion, a medium-light shade of coral, being shot with very pale pink and rich coral (the Pantone colour of 2019). These silks complement each other perfectly.

The design I chose shows how these two fabrics work in perfect harmony, bringing line and colour to my hat by cutting the circle of bonded fabrics into decreasing concentric circles. Like the rhythmic lines of a poem, I have created swirls and loops which weave through and around its self to show how these 2 fabrics are not only in perfect harmony but also are completely equal, one to the other. The front of the hat shows the patterned lilac, pink and pale coral silk while the reverse side is equally rhythmic in the light coral dupion. These two sides have been brought together equally with a one inch bias made from the dupion.

Each time when I worked on or looked at the completed hat I thought of Karla.

Materials

  • 50cm2 of at least 40 year old floral pink, lilac, coral silk. From a dear friend, Karla, who downsized and moved interstate.
  • 1.12m2 Silk dupion. Light Coral: shot pale pink with rich coral.
  • Double sided buckram.
  • 1” bias binding maker.
  • Iron.
  • Quilting batting.
  • Matching thread for hand sewing.
  • Paper for pattern making.
  • Covered wire #20.
  • 2 metal headbands.
  • Cutting board.
  • Cutting wheel.
  • 1 x hair comb.

Techniques

  • I drew 41cm circle on paper, adding a 12cm line at 45o to create the end piece, curving to join the circle. Continued in decreasing circles, stopping at 8cm for base.
  • Ironed floral and dupion silk to each side of buckram – to fuse.
  • Transferred paper pattern to fused silk.
  • Machined 2 parallel lines .5cm apart, following pattern.
  • Carefully cut between lines.
  • Machine sewed wire in zig-zag to all raw edges, pivoting at centre point. Approx 2.8-3m.
  • Cut batting 1.5cm x 3m and hand sewed to cover wire – to give a fuller finish.
  • Cut 5cm x 3.5m dupion and made 2.5cm (1”) bias, ironing.
  • Using matching thread, hand sewed 20cm from centre, beginning on the inner curve, working outwards. Blind stitching from front to back, pulling bias tape gently.
  • Now the tricky part to arrange almost 2m curved stiffened fabric into a cohesive and attractive design.
  • Tried on many times, finally settling on a design.
  • Pinned and sewed at meeting points.
  • Covered 2 metallic headbands with dupion, attached to hat and secured and covered ends.
  • Attached label to base.
  • Attached hair comb.

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