Tania Hansen – USA

Indigo Dreams

Description

Indigofera Tinctoria has been used as the only blue dye for millennia in Asia and India to produce a rich color of blue. Since it a member of the Pea family, it is a cover crop, to be tilled in, to increase nitrogen availability in the soil; it is therefore sustainable. As indigo traveled to Europe and finally the Americas in the 17th century, it has provided a beautiful range of printed and dyed fabrics to western civilization. Ever since Levi Strauss & Co. offered indigo dyed work pants for miners during the California Gold Rush, blue denim is now accepted as a time-tested material available to all persons regardless of their economic situation.

The hat’s Asian interpretation of Indigo reveals its early historical use. The shape of the hat and the shibori method of dyeing silk are familiar and representative of Asian culture and art.

The Indigo plant with its showy pink flowers is a host for the Blue Zebra butterfly both interpreted in silk and feather creation. The golden orange stitching alludes to Levi’s iconic finish for hems, and topstitching.

Indigo progressed from East to West while introducing denim as a staple in fast and high fashion. While many jeans no longer are dyed with this natural pigment, it’s timeless effect on worldwide culture and fashion is undeniable.

Materials

• Parisisal Capeline
• Sinamay
• Natural Indigo Dye
• Steel Sprung Wire
• Jeans Thread
• Silk Dupioni
• Silk Habotai
• Silk Organza
• Silk Satin
• Petersham ribbon
• Floral wire
• Procion Dyes
• Flower Pips
• Feather Butterfly
• PVA Stiffener
• Cotton Quilting Thread

Techniques

• Indigo Vat dyeing of straw and silk fabrics
• PVA stiffening of straws
• French and Japanese methods of stiffening, dyeing, forming, wiring, and assembling the silk flowers
• Making a Card block
• Blocking parasisal and sinamay
• Wire for edge stability
• Creation of an inner skull cap to keep the hat in position
• Hand stitching throughout except sashes
• Both the skull cap and hat are lined completely with silk dupioni
• The Golden Petersham compliments and adds rhythm to the composition