2021 HATalk Competition Entry

Valerie Vernon Case

Name of Hat/Headpiece

Shoji Screen Saucer

Maker

Valerie Vernon Case

Country

United States

HATalk Archive Inspiration

Jinsin Saucer Hat Project by Catherine Ellen

Description

The photograph in the project intrigued me because of the textured spiral the jinsin made when fanned into a circle from the center. I wanted to try my hand at this fabric. I had some of the black and white graphic jinsin on hand and decided to see how that would work in a spiraled circle. I was concerned about the graphic design not aligning when fanned into a circle, so I decided to use the embroidered cherry branches as both a color enhancement and a distraction from the non-alignment. I adored how the red cherry blossoms made the graphic pattern really pop. I also loved the Japanese screen appearance the embroidery imparted to the hat.

I didn't want my stitches attaching the embroidery to show on the underside, so I used ivory thread on the embroidery, buried my stitches where possible, and used permanent marker to "paint" any threads that might be visible on the embroidery. (NO GLUE WAS USED to attach the embroidery. ) To give the hat a 3-dimensional quality, I added loops of sinamay (2 different lengths) anchored by a large tear drop shaped, vintage paper mache white pearl. The pearl added to the Japanese look of the hat.

I love that the graphic design is interesting from both the underside and the top side of the saucer. The finished hat is 14 inches, trimmed in black sinamay, and attaches with a sinamay covered headband.

Hat Making Materials

  • graphic design black and ivory jinsin
  • black sinamay for edging, loops, and to cover headband
  • 1/2 inch metal alice band
  • embroidered red cherry blossoms on black branches
  • vintage white paper mache pearl
  • thread
  • lace to cover stitching on headband
  • spring wire
  • glue to protect cut edges of jinsin

Hat Making Techniques

  • Measured, cut and folded jinsin to create desired hat size, as described in article
  • Used a dolly head to center the cut and folded piece of jinsin as shown in the project, and fanned it into a circle
  • Sewed the ends together where they met when fanned out, to complete the circle. Buried stitches in pleats
  • Cut and stitched spring wire to edge of saucer
  • Used bias strips of black sinamay for edging, loops and headband.
  • Attached embroidery, loops and pearl by hand stitching.

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