HATalk Competition Entry 2023

Sarah Gross

Maker
Sarah Gross

Country
United Kingdom

Name of Hat
Triskelion

Description

My starting point was to research how Earth is represented in different cultures.

I began sketching various shapes, flowing lines and elements which I found reflected Earth.

I was interested in segments, like segments from a sphere, so I began blocking sinamay on various dome and sphere shapes, in layers of colour.

I liked the thought of layering up various shapes, colours and textures. I researched vintage styles in fashion and millinery that incorporated layering, such as Dior’s famous Petal Dress. I have a love of vintage and wanted to give my piece a vintage feel. I decided to use a new half-hat block I recently bought from Guy Morse-Brown and build my design from there. I also felt the use of veiling would add some vintage glamour.

In the middle of my experimenting and research, I had a trip to Ireland. Being part Irish I thought it would be nice to research how Earth is interpreted in Gaelic Celtic tradition. The Celtic spiral, known as the Triskele, is a set of three spirals. When they are all clockwise the symbol has a meaning of Earth and harmony, however, if anti-clockwise they symbolise manipulation of nature. The Triskelion symbol is believed to represent three worlds – the present, the spirit and the celestial. I wanted to incorporate the symbol into my design. I felt that the spherical shapes would work well with the flowing lines of silk abaca, so I made tubular strips of abaca to encase millinery wire which would hold the spiral shapes.

The process of designing and building my entry was organic, I feel this is reflected in the final piece. It is an eclectic mix of muted colours and textures found in nature.

Materials:

Sinamay – Various Colours
Sinamay – Metallic
Silk Abaca
Lady Amherst Feathers – Natural Green
Mega English Merry Widow Veiling
Hotfix Crystals
Millinery Wire
Raw Silk
Gimp Braid
Small Hair Comb
Hat Elastic

Techniques:

Blocking sinamay on a hat block and various dome shapes.
Stiffening the sinamay.
Hand sewing and machine sewing.
Feather stripping and trimming.
Hotfix crystal embellishment.
Wire manipulation.

Note: Entries have been not been edited or proofread to protect the integrity of the maker's original meaning. 

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