HATalk Competition Entry 2023

Julian Brown

Maker
Julian Brown

Country
UK

Name of Hat
EARTHORIGIN

Description

The EARTHORIGIN hat is a sculptural metaphor of EARTHS dilemma, poignantly looking at itself through the eye of the JWST (James Webb Space Telescope).

As EARTHS current custodians we have no choice than to protect and live within its parameters, lest, alongside its demise, we too, will expire. Only knowledge and a new coming together can prevent that.

Christmas day 2021 witnessed the launch of the inspiring and beautiful JWST missioned to study the early Universe and cast light on the ORIGIN of our EARTH. Viewing EARTH from distance may afford us a timely and thoughtful mirror onto ourselves, whilst the clock is still running.

The JWST sends hope. It is aesthetically and technically stunning, has a subliminal ovality and hat-ness in its geometry and above all, its mirrors are covered in gold. Gold, possibly being the most valued of Earths elements and ‘for good or bad’, also reflects on our value system.

EARTHORIGIN is a hat of two parts.

A carefully redrawn graphic of the iconic JWST honeycomb hexagonal geometry superimposed onto a new strict Bolero block form with the planes of the brim and crown shifted spatially and the 18 ‘mirrors’ being painstakingly hand-gilded directly onto high quality black rabbit fur felt using 300 individual mini tiles of real gold leaf in five different tones: 24ct: 16ct: Moon: Latin: and Citron.

And the telescope’s subservient white pyramid-like space-frame for supporting the all-seeing golden mirrors suspended from the underside of the brim by six mini mounting-point leather discs using a fine engineered thread.

Finally, at the telescope’s apex or eye, EARTH is imagined biblically as a beautiful, yet withered apple, which had been gifted to me from the sadly, no longer with us, talented jeweller Wendy Ramshaw alongside an instruction.

To contemplate its future.

That time has come

Materials:

High quality rabbit fur felt (black)
Leather (sweatband+details) (black)
Dupion slubbed silk (black)

GILDING
Real Gold leaf (in 5 different gold tones (24ct, 16ct, Moon, Latin, and Citron)
‘Wundasize’ (acrylic water based gold size)
‘Whitson’s’ universal water based laquer

MODEL/FRAME+APPLE
Fine aluminium tube
Piano wire (steel)
Matt white spray paint
A dried out and thread-wrapped apple

Techniques:

Self carved ‘bolero’ wooden block to match the ‘3-D developed’ hexagonal geometry.
Hand blocked, hard-compressed, trimmed ‘felt body’
Laying-out and masking-out on the felt
Fine-application of ‘size’
Preparation and selection of the gold ’tiles’ to randomise quilting texture
Applying of gold leaf by brush
Burnishing and laquering of the gold leaf.
The gilding technique was uniquely developed over many weeks
Hand model making
Hand stitching
Hand leather work
Lasering of leather label
Machine sewing of silk liner

NB: In the UK gold leaf suppliers experience, the quality of gilding on felt on this hat may be a Worlds first.

Note: Entries have been not been edited or proofread to protect the integrity of the maker's original meaning. 

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